Guillaume Bo ( MenNeedMoreStyle )
Guillaume Bo ( MenNeedMoreStyle )
Nowadays casual means everything and…nothing. Originally,Â gentlemen had to wear suits in town. Casual meant country. Casual meant colours. Casual meant more “room for manoeuvre”
Thanks to our first article dedicated to dress or formal shoes, you know what you should wear with your suits. But nowadays far fewer people wear suits regularly and so things have changed a lot. The “old rules” are no longer available for a lot of men. “No brown in town” for example is completely out of date. These days you have choice and sometimes that is not easy!
This is why also we must tell the difference between casual and…casual.
Do you still wear a jacket or a blazer? Do you walk a lot? Do you drive a lot? Do you want to have a nice pair for the week end only? Or do you only wear denim?
Basically, you should consider that if you do wear classic attire, like a blazer with nice trousers, or even nice blue denim trousers with a jacket, you are more “formal” than casual. In this case feel free to wear nice Oxfords for example, but not black ones. In fact you can almost wear whatever you want as long as it is not black. (This applies to your clothes too – no black!). Think about blue or brown loafers, tan double monks, nice derbies. Be bold and try and coordinate with what you are wearing.
It is the same thing for your socks. Casual means fewer constraints and less rigidity.
Casual also means “practical”. Rubber soles can be very helpful for those who walk a lot or those who need to worry about the rain and the slippery sidewalks for example.
If you are lucky enough not to have a dress code at work, feel free to wear whatever you want. Same thing for your days off and weekends.
But never forget that a nice pair of shoes makes always the difference. Play with textures, fabrics and colours but don’t go to far.
Just forget about black ones, horrible flip-flops or Crocs of course. A contemporary gentleman is still a gentleman and he knows that balance and moderation are the key.
Guillaume Bo ( MenNeedMoreStyle )
Ciao a tutti, oggi sono qui per darvi alcuni consigli e aiuti, su come scegliere il modello di scarpa adeguato in base alle diverse occasioni. Vediamo di seguito,alcuni modelli dai piÃƒ classici ai piÃƒ casual.
Hello everyone, today I am here to give you some advice and help on how to choose the most appropriate model of shoes according to different occasions. Please see below for my selections.
Nata nel 1830, ÃƒÂ¨ la scarpa per eccellenza delle occasioni di gala sia diurne che notturne. Presenta un allacciatura a 6 occhielli, chiusa. Consigliata con un abito dai toni scuri e pantalone con risvolto ampio (5cm).
First popular in the 1830’s, this shoe is ideal for formal occasions, day or night. The closed lacing makes this styleÂ sleek in profile and so the most elegant design of shoe. In black leather it can be worn with a dark suit or brown leathers. For extra flair they work really well with cuffed (turn-up) trousers but you would not do this with a black pair.
la forma Â¨ simile alla Oxford, ma dalla punta meno arrotondata, Â¨ caratterizzata da forature dette a Å“nido di rondineÃ¢â‚¬Â che rendono questa scarpa classica, ma allo stesso tempo pi casual. Si pu indossare con un abito, preferibilmente spezzato (giacca e pantalone diversi).
The brogue is a style that uses punching details in the leather to create a pattern. This makes it more casual than an Oxford. You can complement the shoe by wearing a broken outfit i.e. non-matching trousers and jacket.
Una scarpa chiusa, con la tomaia che risale verso il collo del piede, sulla quale si sovrappone unÃ¢ ala allacciata lateralmente da una (single monk strap) o due fibbie (double monk strap, o dub-monks) a seconda del modello. Meno formale della Oxford, ma allo stesso tempo elegante. Indossabile con un abito dalle tonalitÃƒ scure.
The monk can have either one or two straps depending on the style. The shoe is generally elasticated to allow the shoe to slip-on without needing to alter the tackles, although if you have a high instep you will need to undo the buckles. This is less formal than an Oxford but a little more elegant than a brogue. This is best worn with darker tones.
La scarpa piÃƒ usata dalglÃ¢ italiani, considerata un must per lÃ¢ uomo a cui piace essere elegante, ma non eccessivamente. La possiamo trovare con una punta sfilata o quadrata, in camoscio o di pelle. Indossabile con un abito spezzato o con un jeans e camicia.
This is an essential shoe for the Italian people, considered a must for men who like to be stylish but not extravagant. It can have a pointed or square toeÂ and be made of suede or leather. It is best worn with an unmatched jacket and trousers or with jeans and a shirt.
AnchÃ¢ essa utilizzatissima dal dandy italiano, che si sente molto giovane. presenta la stessa forma della loafer ma sul collo piede presenta delle noppine in pelle intrecciata.
Adatta per look classic con tocchi sportivi (la mia preferita).
Another favourite in Italy is the tassel loafer, worn by a younger and more extravagant man, it has the same shape as a standard loafer but the tassel and lace around the heel add more flamboyance. This is my favourite design as it is great with classic styling or more sporty outfits.
Uno stivaletto con le stringhe, un must per qualsiasi uomo, comodo e chic allo stesso tempo. Utilizzabile su un abito non eccessivamente formale e su jeans.
The Chukka boot, a must for any man, is comfortable and chic at the same time. This is definitely a relaxed style that is best worn with jeans and informal attire.
Una scarpa molto casual simile alla chukkaboot, leggermente piÃƒ bassa e con la pianta molto larga e con suola in gomma o in para. Utilizzabile per qualsiasi situazione, non estremamente formale.
Derby designs are great for wearing if you have a high instep, but because of the construction of the lacing being open they are not as elegant and so less formal. They are often in wider fittings and can be seen in country designs with plain fronts. Suitable for most situations but not for formal wear.
Lo stivaletto per eccellenza, adatto per chi ama gli abbinamenti classici con tocchi casual. Presenta la molla ai lati e possiamo trovarlo anche nella versione Brogue.
With elasticated sides the Chelsea is a superb boot for most occasions. It is sleek and formal looking in black or casual and relaxed in brown making it extremely flexible for your wardrobe.
Spero possiate apprezzare questi miei consigli, per qualsiasi domanda, non esitate a scrivermi.
I hope you can appreciate my advice, for any questions please do contact me here or via my blog at nicolaradano.com
Ciao a tutti, Nicola.
In the latest of our series of guest blog articles by fashion guru Guillaume Bo, he has compiled a short guide to help you chose the right shoes for your loved ones.
You have a great idea that you want to buy a new pair of shoes (for maybe your lover, husband, son, grand father). Then you realise it’s not that easy.
“Should I try something new?”
“Should I think about something for his job?â€
“What about those beautiful red or green boots” and so on.
Finally, you give up and you buy a tie (again) a shirt (one more time) or even a cigar.
Let me give you some tips for these guys that might help.
So, a young man will love to wear nice loafers, chelsea boots or double monks with his blazer/shirt/sweater. Instead of his usual sneakers.
If you are really looking forward your husband/lover/friend wearing something different than his old battered shoes, just try to upgrade but not too much. Think about a nice derby with rubber soles. But not too “vintage” though. Think about casual boots, maybe with natural sole edges. Think about nice leather trainers or sneakers, maybe even brogued trainers.
Do you know someone that’s looking for a job? Black Oxfords, boots or loafers. They will be great for his interviews.
Is your man someone who travels a lot? or someone who lives in his car? Something light, easy to take off so the loafer is again great choice.
For your grandfather, choose some new velvet slippers, that will make him feel at ease and elegant at home.
Basically, it is not so difficult to choose a great and suitable pair of shoes as a gift, the secret is to try not to think about yourself, think about the person you are buying for.
The great thing about shoes is they all have different strengths, so once you know what you are looking for, the suitable styles will jump out at you. Think different if you want to be sure your present will be worn as men are often too conservative but can always wear a bit more colour than we expect. And think classical style – they may have the shoes for years so make sure it is something that will last. Shoes do make a great gift if you follow these simple steps, after all we all need a nice pair of shoes.
Herring shoes are proud to say that we have partnered with CollectPlus as a click and collect courier. Click and Collect is a relatively new service in the UK but is rapidly becoming one of the most popular. What makes the service so convenient is that you can choose from thousands of local stores that are close to your home or workplace. They are often open at weekends and operate for longer hours than usual. This means you can now collect or return your Herring at almost any time.
To select this new service, look at the shipment method in the checkout pages and select CollectPlus from the drop down menu. You will then be prompted to select you favourite drop-off point and checkout in the normal way. As with all our UK deliveries and returns we are pleased to say this is a free service.
If you would like to learn more about this service visit the CollectPlus website where you can find out what locations are near you.
England vs Italy.
No, it’s not a football game. This is about their very different styles. For decades, a gentlemen had to choose which he wanted to follow. The British school is all about rules and codes that are very established. The Italian school is more about freedom, seduction and comfort. This is also the case for shoes.
For example, nowadays we can see a lot of men wearing their loafers without socks or with invisible socks. This is a typically Italian look that, for a British gentleman, is highly unorthodox, and constitutes sacrilege! In the British view a gentleman must not show his hairy ankles and I agree. Wearing formal or business attire can inspire a â€œstyle savingâ€ restraint. This helps you to appreciate that you do not only wear clothes and shoes for yourself, but in a large measure as a way to communicate about yourself, to help other people understand you.
So British is best? No.
It can be very “coolâ€ to rock your nice tassels and even monk shoes with more casual combinations. It says to the world: “hey, I’m a gentleman but I’m not that obsessed by myself. Iâ€™m open, Iâ€™m alive, Iâ€™m dynamicâ€. Italian style takes the essence of British style, the best of it, then modifies and softens it. They learnt the rules so they could break them.
So Italian is best? No.
You can like both schools as I do. Elegance is all about balance, not rules. First and foremost it is about knowing what flatters you and how you feel about what you are wearing. Which style you find most suitable can vary depending on your emotions, your social life and your work.
Thankfully our world is not as small as it used to be. Our tastes and inspirations have been evolving as influences from around the world inspire us. Good taste can be found in Asia, America, Africa, anywhere. But don’t forget gentlewomen and gentlemen, classic style is timeless, secure and understated but should never be boring at all.
So gentlemen, it is a draw, Italy 1- England 1 and we are all winners.
Shoes speak louder than words,
Without doubt one of the biggest questions when buying a handmade, lasted shoe is,Â ‘will shoes made on this last shape fit me?’ Firstly I will try and explain exactly what a last is.
If you can picture a wooden shoe tree then you have a basic idea of what the last looks like. It is a piece of wood that is shaped a unique way, that will form the shape of the shoe when the leather is stretched over it.
Highly skilled craftsmenÂ tack the leather onto the last to ensure itÂ is evenlyÂ stretched. Excess leather is then pared away soÂ the shoe-maker can start attachingÂ the sole to the upper. The shoe will stay on the last shape until they are ready to be polished and boxed.
As you can imagine, there are many different last shapes from manufacturer to manufacturer. You will still find that last shapes cross over from style to style, for example the Herring Gosforth Â is a Chukka boot made on the 026 last, as is the Herring Knightsbridge, an oxford toe cap shoe. Â Although they are two different styles, the footbed and uppers will be the same and have the same overall shape and feel. On very rare occasions you get shoes made on the same last shape that can be a little different inside, this is down to the fact that one of the pairs was perhaps left on the last a little longer or shorter and so the leather may have stretched more or less than another pair. As these are handmade items, the subtle variations are to be expected and are part of the charm of a traditional crafted item, rather than a fault.
When looking at the last name or most commonly the number, unfortunately there is no recognised system or table to determine how each one will fit. There is no reliable relation between names and numbers so the 026 standard last is, for example, very different to the wide country 024 last.
The common mistake when looking at last shapes, is to think that a longer last is for a longer foot size. This is not the case. In theory the last is always sized to fit a standard foot size, meaning that a long last will fit the same foot as a standard last shape. The difference is in the appearance of the outline of the shoe. Â A good example of this is the Herring Lewis which is made on the very sleek 486 last, but will fit just as well as any otherÂ lasted shoe.
To summarise, the last is really more about the outline and style of the shoe, than how it will fit you. The key benefit of buying shoes from Herring is that we test all our shoes for size across all our manufacturers so you can be reasonably confident that any size shoe you find that fits will be similar to any other equivalent size. For the best results, you can just choose another style on the same last shape as this is virtually guaranteed to fit. You can search our website by last shape to make this easier. Just put the last name into the text search and all the styles on that last should appear. We have also added a shoe last comparison page which allows you to see the most popular herring lasts side by side.
If you do find that you have bought a pair of shoe on a last that is not quite right we are always happy to exchange or refund the shoes and we can always offer advice on what lastsÂ would be best for you, based on your previous purchases and our extensive experience of helping customers for many years.
We receive many calls from our customers asking us about polishing shoes, the best techniques and products to use. We have put a video showing basic polishing and bulling techniques on our youtube channel. But this blog post is aimed at the specific challenges of two-tone shoes. Due to the amount of superb two tone shoes we sell ( leather and suede ) we wanted to show you how easy it is to care for them and to show that suede is not as fragile as you may think.
La historia de esta la marca que os presentamos hoy, es el perfecto ejemplo de cÃ³mo una firma de calzado con mÃ¡s de 50 aÃ±os de tradiciÃ³n sabe adaptarse a los tiempos y conseguir hacer crecer su negocio por encima de las expectativas.
Herring Shoes fue fundado por Richard Herring en 1966 en la exclusiva zona de Montpellier, Cheltenham. Desde su tienda cercana a sus almacenes empezaron a vender zapatos ingleses de las principales marcas (ChurchÂ´s, Loake o Barkeys).
The story of Herring shoe is one of adaptation. How do you adapt, change your business model when you have a history of 50 years in the making of shoes? This brand did it and shows us solutions to change and adapt to make your business grow.
Herring Shoes was founded by Richard Herring in 1966, in Montpellier, Chetentham. In this store Herring Shoes was selling top english brands such as Churchâ€™s Loake or Barkeys.
Con los aÃ±os Herring Shoes construyo una estrecha relaciÃ³n con muchos de los fabricantes de Northampton trabajando en muchos casos directamente con el Sr. Andrew Loake, William Barker y Jonathan y William ChurchÂ´s.
Adrian, el director general de la firma, trabajÃ³ en la fÃ¡brica de Barker durante varios aÃ±os conociendo en detalle las construcciones y procesos artesanales a la hora de hacer un zapato ingles. A travÃ©s de estos contactos se decidieron a lanzar su propia gama de calzado diseÃ±ado por ellos y fabricado por Barkers, Cheaney y Loake entre otros.
Al trabajar con estas fÃ¡bricas tan prestigiosas de Northampton pueden servirse del conocimiento y maestrÃa de cada fabricante para fabricar cada tipo de zapato sabiendo que serÃ¡ hecho por los mejores zapateros ingleses.
This business relationship grew into a friendship and thatâ€™s how this little store came to know personally Sr. Andrew Loake, William Barker and Jonathan and William Church.
Brand General Manager, Adrian, used to work in the Barker factory, learning how to build a typical english shoe, and learning about the craft of shoe making. Thanks to this experience and to their friendship with great shoemakers, they decided to make their own brand that would be built by Barkers, Cheaney and Loake.
Working with these Northampton maestros, they know they can use their knowledge to build absolutely any type of shoe they want as it will be made by the best craftsmen in England.
La gama de calzado Herring se hace a la medida de las necesidades de sus clientes. Al trabajar directamente con las fabricas son capaces de sobre modelos existentes mejorar determinadas especificaciones (mejor cuero, suelas, etc) logrando estilos Ãºnicos.
En otras ocasiones tienen la oportunidad de crear sus propios diseÃ±os y estilos distinguiÃ©ndose de la competencia y ofreciendo la mÃ¡xima calidad a precios excepcionales. Un papel que desarrolla principalmente Adrian, el cual viaja a las fabricas, diseÃ±ando y eligiendo los estilos y modelos.
SegÃºn nos comentaba Adrian, intenta en la medida de lo posible ofrecer algo diferente a lo que podemos ver en Loake, Barker o Cheaney. Pero a veces, por supuesto, es imposible crear un zapato Ãºnico como un oxford negro, asÃ que tienen que fabricar un zapato idÃ©ntico a la gama del fabricante.
Herringâ€™s is proposing handmade shoes that goes with the customerâ€™s exigence. Working hand in hand with the factories, they can change anything you want (leather, soles, etc.) and get unique results every single time.
They also have their own brand in which they do their own designs and get exceptional results to very attractive prices. Thatâ€™s Adrian role into the organization as he travels to the factory, designs and choses the looks of the whole collection.
As Adrian told us, they always try to propose original designs that differs from the Churchâ€™s, Loake or Barker ones, but of course, some basics are ultimately impossible to vary. Thatâ€™s why their black Oxford design is the same you can find in this brands, and where their price politics is particularly relevant.
Herring tiene cuatro gamas o colecciones diferentes:
1. La colecciÃ³n 1966 la cual lleva el nombre de su aÃ±o de fundaciÃ³n y representa la gama mÃ¡s lujosa y exclusiva.
2.Ligeramente por debajo de esta gama, tienen la colecciÃ³n Premier, la cual esta cortada a mano, cosida y fabricada en el Reino Unido.
3.Luego tienen la colecciÃ³n clÃ¡sica que es principalmente de fabricaciÃ³n inglesa y que representa una combinaciÃ³n de calidad y precio justo.
4. Por Ãºltimo tienen su gama casual – estos son los mocasines, trainers, slippers y otros estilos que se hacen fuera del Reino Unido.
La mayor parte de su colecciÃ³n clÃ¡sica estÃ¡ hecha por las fÃ¡bricas de Loake y Barker, mientras que su gama Premier estÃ¡ hecha por las fabricas de Cheaney, Alfred Sargent, Trickers y Sanders. Siendo su gama mÃ¡s alta la colecciÃ³n 1966 que estÃ¡ fabricada por Alfred Sargent.
Herring proposes four different ranges:
1. The 1966: the luxury collection, the exclusive one that got its name from the founding year of Herring Shoes.
2. Slightly less expensive is the Premier collection, handmade and made in the UK.
3. Then is the Classic collection, which for the most of it made in the UK and that is a combination and good quality, and pricing that are studied to be best.
4.Last but not least, the casual collection – loafers, trainers, car shoes, slippers, and other styles made out the UK
Most of the shoes you can buy there are made in the Loake and Barker factories. The Premier collection is done in the Cheaney, Tricker and Alfred Sargent factories. Sargent is also in charge of making the 1966 collection.
Sin duda alguna su estilo para los zapatos Oxford, Derby, Monkstrap y las botas es ingles principalmente porque estÃ¡n fabricados en la zona de Northampton utilizando la prestigiosa construcciÃ³n Goodyear.
Pero sus modelos de mocasines y nÃ¡uticos son fabricados en EspaÃ±a, debidos principalmente a que es en este paÃs donde se hacen los mejores zapatos de este estilo.
QuizÃ¡s la mayor diferencia respecto a otras marcas del sector, es su capacidad para producir pequeÃ±as tiradas de nuevos diseÃ±os â€“ Ãºnicamente 12 pares de zapatos- lo cual les permite arriesgar con diseÃ±os mÃ¡s â€œcreativosâ€ o novedosos.
Of course, the style for its Oxford, Derby, Monkstrap and the boots is resolutely english as it is made in the factories of Northampton following the Good Year craft.
But its loafers and boat shoes are made in Spain, as itâ€™s in Spain that you can find the best makers for these types of shoes.
Maybe the biggest difference you can find with other brands is the capacity Herring has to produce small quantities of a single models – 12 pairs of the same model – and how it allows them to be more creative.
Desde el aÃ±o 2000 iniciaron la venta de zapatos online aumentando el negocio exponencialmente. Actualmente venden mÃ¡s zapatos de su marca propia (Herring) que de ChurchÂ´s, Loake o cualquier otra marca.
Su negocio online es actualmente el mÃ¡s importante â€“ venden zapatos por todo el mundo y son capaces de llegar a clientes que nunca hubieran imaginado hace apenas unos aÃ±os. Pero donde mas hacen hincapiÃ© es en su servicio de atenciÃ³n al cliente, siendo su prioridad que comprar en Herring sea toda una experiencia de satisfacciÃ³n.
Actualmente siguen desarrollando su negocio online y este aÃ±o quieren incluir varias lÃneas de ropa. Unas colecciones hechas en el Reino Unido siguiendo su filosofÃa.
In the 2000, they began with their own online store and their business grew a lot. They are now selling more shoes of their own brand than Churchâ€™s, Loake or any other brand.
Their online store is actually more important – they are selling shoes all over the world and have the capacity to get to customers that they wouldnâ€™t have even imagines a few years ago. But what really defines them is their attention to customer as they want the buying to be an experience and a satisfactory one.
Right now they are developing their online store and this year they want to be able to offer various clothes collections. Collections that are to be made in the UK, following their philosophy.
Sus precios varÃan de 10 para un par de calcetines hasta los 425â‚¬ por un par de zapatos de la colecciÃ³n 1966.
The Spectator is the most common welted footwear design to use two different colours. This two-tone effect is created by using different leathers for the toe, vamp, facings and counters. The wingtip or full-brogue brogue pattern is the natural style for this effect because it already has different pieces of leather for these parts of the shoe.
Spectator: the term spectator comes from outdoor, sporting gentlemen, taking to this style of shoe for golf and cricket. After a while the shoe became popular with the spectators at these events and the name was adopted. View all our spectator shoes.
Co-respondent: an alternative name for a two-tone shoe is the co-respondent. This name, particularly in the UK, came from a perception that they were ungentlemanly and were worn by the “wrong sort”. This perception was encouraged by the most notorious affair of the 1930’s when King Edward VIII abdicated from the throne to marry Wallace Simpson. She was a divorcee and still married to her second husband when the King proposed marriage.
A co-respondent in English law is the term for a person named in a divorce suit as the wrongdoer. Both Edward and Wallace were fond of two-tone shoes and so the association became stronger between the bright shoes and marital infidelity. Fortunately these original misgivings are now only of historical interest. Our two-tone men’s shoes are now almost as popular as the simple black oxfords. View all our co-respondent shoes.
Saddle: although most two-tone shoes are based upon the brogue, there is another variation that is also popular; the saddle shoe. A single piece of leather is placed over the top of the shoe, as if it was a saddle on a horse, usually in a darker colour than the main body of the shoe. View all our two-tone shoes.